Showing posts with label pellon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pellon. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Prep for Fabric Postcards

August 2015
Sheree McKee
sewfabsew.blogspot.com

10 steps to Prep

  1. Sew in short sessions, sometimes over several days 
  2. Make multiples at a time 
  3. Fuse front base fabrics to stiffener or stabilizer filler ahead of time
  4. Layer or build the front theme design
  5. Embellish front with FLAT fibers and trims
  6. Apply backing by fusing or sewing
  7. Add final dimensional items to fronts 
  8. Trim to size 4"x6"
  9. Overcast edges or add wrapped borders
  10. Sign and label back, add postage and address


1.  SEW A LITTLE BIT EACH DAY!  
That's what works best for me, 30-45 minutes is easy to squeeze into most hectic schedules.  I am a morning person, sometimes sewing at 4:30 am before the birds are singing!

2.  MAKE MULTIPLES: 
I seem to have a sewing construction order that works for me.  Since most of my swaps will trade two to four fabric postcards, I tend to make three at a time.  If I like the end results, then I'll make a few more.

3.  FUSE FRONTS:  
I try to keep several fabric strips cut and ready for upcoming projects by tearing them into 5" wide strips, crosswise.  I also prepare full-width cuts of stabilizer approximately 5" wide.  Sometimes I take a random 30-45 minutes to select fabric, cut, fuse and cool it, knowing I will sew it on another future date.
Yellow template is 4"x6" size
I like the 20" width of Peltex 71F stabilizer.  The Peltex has a one-sided, rough fusible texture.  I use a protective non-stick mat underneath the Peltex, to protect my ironing surface and I use a cotton press cloth on top of my theme fabric.
My favorite stiffener or filler
TIP:   Always allow the fused layers to cool before removing them from the ironing board.  If you remove the steamed stabilizer too early, or allow it to bend then you can set an unwanted curve or distortion into it.


After cooling, cut into three temporary sections approximately 5" x 6 1/2" as seen below.


Making Multiples

4.  LAYER OR BUILD the front theme design with additional pieced or appliqued fabrics.   
TIP:  Since I often machine stitch through these add-on layers of fabric, I try to use a white bobbin thread.  This will minimize any show-through thread stitches on the backside when the backing is added.  Most fabric postcard backs are muslin or a light-colored solid fabric to emphasis hand written text.  Using dark bobbin threads can interfere with the readability.
5.  EMBELLISH FRONT with FLAT fibers and trims 
Too much dimension can hinder the ability to fuse your backing on
6.  APPLY BACKING by fusing or sewing

7.  ADD DIMENSIONAL items to fronts such as buttons, charms, thick cording
I try to keep dimensional objects at least 3/8"-1/2" away from edges.  This allows my presser feet plenty of space to overcast outer edges in the final stages.
8.  TRIM all four sides to  4"x 6" 
Most often I use a rotary cutter, and I'm very fond of the scallop wheel shape!
9.  OVERCAST EDGES or add wrapped borders

10.  SIGN, DATE, STAMP, ADDRESS the back 
Use special fabric markers or fine point Sharpies or Micron pens
dharmatrading.com
Identi-pen at Dharma Trading

http://sakuraofamerica.com
sakuraofamerica.com

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Let’s Start with Postcard Structure

February 2014
Sheree McKee
sewfabsew.blogspot.com

Fabric postcards (FPC) are basically layered sandwiches.   They need to be firm enough and durable enough to withstand mailing in the US Postal service.

Top layer:               
Consists of fabric, fibers and embellishments.  As your design layer, the sky is the limit!  Most people don’t have any problems deciding on what to use on top!

Middle filler:  
HTC Handler Textile makes Fusible Fleece
Often contains a stabilizer, interfacing, canvas,
fleece or batting.  The filler will add substance 
to your FPC.  Middle fillers can be sew-in or 
fusible.

Backing layer:         
This should be a smooth or fine weave fabric, 
which is suitable enough to allow writing or 
rubberstamping.  Some fabrics are difficult to 
write on, and I have experienced this on many 
projects. Some muslin fabrics are too rough to 
take the ink evenly.  And often there are lumps 
of thread or bumps from embellishments.

There are also colorfast inkjet fabric sheets that you can run through your printer.  This allows you to format text and fonts anyway you like!  Most of these must be “set” by ironing the ink and images on the fabric sheets.

Cardstock is another backing option, and yes, you can sew through it!  Tyvek and Teslin are non-tear, durable, specialty papers that also make nice backings.  Personally, I like using an occasional cardstock and feel it hides some of those imperfections, making it easier to write a neat greeting and mailing address.  Occasionally, I recycle a nice Tyvek envelope to use as a backing.


Final Structure:
Fleece or batting fillers result in plush, soft postcards
Your three choices above will determine the final outcome of your FPC.  Everything is held together either by fusing, stitching, quilting or gluing.  Maybe all of them at once!  It’s up to you, whether you like fusible products or not. 

Your fabric postcards will take on a personality!   Since variety is the spice of life, your experiments with stabilizers and fillers will lead you to a signature look.  Your resulting postcards might appear very soft and “quilt like” or stiff and “art like”.

Have fun experimenting!  

ShereeSews in M!ch!gan


HELPFUL PRODUCT LINKS

  • Batting ~ Cotton, polyester, or wool
  • Canvas ~ Try a double layer!
  •  71F Ultra Firm Peltex by Pellon - one sided fusible. This is my favorite!

VISIT THESE PELLON PROJECTS PDF

  1. Patchwork Heart Postcard Project
  2. Black & Pink Postcard Project
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